chris willett

Wednesday, November 02, 2005

wed- call me Ishmael

The morning after the night before I went to reception at the hostel to ask about the kayak tour of the bay. It seemed a bit steep at 25 quid but everything else was far more expensive. Apparently hile this is a very cheap place to stay and eat it is very expensive if you want to actually do anything. There is virtually no public transport and many country areas charge access fees. Anyway, they called the company and there was a cancellation which agian saw me squeezing things it at the last minute- no overplanning there then. As we were kitted out and began paddling it became apparent why it was so costly. Amiable hard man Ivan explained all about the southern right whales which go to the bay this time every year to mate- jokes about the water being thicker than usual etc were luckily avoided (till now). No boats are allowed into the bay during the 'season' except his kayaks and they are not allowed within 300 metres although as he pointed out nobody has told the whales. As we paddled his bronzed buddy Vanessa stood on the cliff tops with 2 way radio and binos so we were guided to where we needed to be- slightly ahead of the whales
En route I passed by what I thought was another clump of seaweed, as the side of my kayak brushed passed there was a hussing noise like Dodge used to make when he was bored. I looked down to see a dozen seals laying on their backs bobbing in the sun. I sees he and he sees I, as the saying goes and they began to swim around me, twisting as they went under my kayak and reverting to belly up every now and then- very entertaining and possibly worth the money alone.
A short time later, as we rose with the swell we could clearly see the grey and white head of a whale with his beady eye on us. We were treated to some breaching, when they jump out of the water with a periodic pop up to check what we were up to. After 2 hours of this we headed back to the harbour and tea and biscuits. The mischievous Dassies which are a bit like rabbits ony bigger- much bigger and live in the rocks had broken into the store room and stolen them, as well as chewing the paperwork. They are so cute I didn't mind. I did some shopping and bought food for a braai and a second hand Wilbur Smith which is good reading for here, I joined a Danish couple and their young sons who are bravely doing the career break at the bbq alter built in the hostel courtyard. When we had finished to owners put on a bbq spread for a fiver which was a million times nicer than mine and probably cost 4.50- oh well. There I also met Andy and Jo for the first time.

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